A couple of weeks ago, I wrote the autopsy report on the small-block Chevy that lived briefly within the engine compartment of Truck Norris, my 1967 Chevy C10. It suffered an untimely demise due to operator error (me) when something got into the carburetor and took out cylinder No. 8. There is no point in rehashing all that here; you can read about it in the September 2021 issue of HOT ROD or right here in my article titled "How to Destroy an Engine with a $6 Part" for all the gory details.
If there is a bright side to all this, it is that a replacement engine is ready to drop back into the pickup, and my C10 will be back on the road soon. I purchased a new 350 from BluePrint Engines and got it running on my Easy-Run Engine Test stand. That is a tool I've had for a while but haven't had much of a chance to use. Up to this point, it had been pressed into service for a few product demos and a video on how to perform compression and cylinder leakdown tests, and it served as a storage platform for an engine block for a couple of months. This was the first time I got to use it to break in an engine, however, which, of course, is the real purpose of a run stand.
In full disclosure, Easy-Run Engine Test Run Stands donated the stand, hoping it would be useful to me in situations like this. This article is in no way intended to be an "advertorial" for Easy-Run; nevertheless, I will wholeheartedly endorse the use of any engine run stand, whether it's a contraption you make yourself or if you decide to purchase one of several other brands of run stands available right now. We in the media are spoiled in that most of the engine builds we do are tested on an engine dyno, and the initial break-in process is done on the dyno prior to testing. That's not always the case in the real world, and most people have to perform the engine break-in process with the engine in the car. What happens if something isn't copacetic? That's right, the engine has to come back out of the car for whatever additional work is needed. How often does that happen? If you (or your engine builder) is careful, it shouldn't happen at all, but an engine stand is a great hedge against that bet. Imagine discovering an intake manifold leak at the rear China wall with the engine installed in a fourth-gen Camaro or Firebird? If you have the means, a run stand is a great way to verify the build before you install the engine in a car. Any leaks can be addressed before installation, and more important, you have the ability to break the engine in ahead of time.
My new 350 has a roller cam, so the break-in procedure isn't very complicated, but it was still nice to get the engine started and running at about 2,000 to 2,500 rpm for about 10 minutes, all while monitoring the oil pressure, setting the timing, checking exhaust temperature with an infrared heat gun, and verifying that the thermostat was opening as it should.
The stand has a throttle adjustment lever that allows you to hold a certain rpm for extended break-in times of a flat-tappet cam, and you can easily see and hear if anything is amiss. That, and it's just so much easier to work on the engine on the stand rather than in the car.
Easy-Run's "dashboard" comes with a comprehensive set of gauges to monitor critical engine functions. In my situation, I had the accessories installed, so I could even see that the alternator was charging the battery.
The wiring is a straightforward affair, and the total time spent assembling the run stand was about three hours. Once assembled, it does take up a considerable amount of floor space, but the unit is easily disassembled and can be stacked against a wall when not in use.
The aluminum radiator and electric fan assembly would work well in a performance car application, so it may be a little overkill on a run stand. However, when breaking in a cam, you'll appreciate knowing you have plenty of cooling capacity and lots of airflow through that big radiator.
The fuel system was easy to connect. It consists of a three-gallon fuel jug with a 3/8-NPT fitting to connect to your fuel pump, either a mechanical pump on the engine or an electric pump you can install and wire to the auxiliary switch on the dash. The gas can even has a fuel level indicator, which is an unexpected luxury.
Our stand came with Chevy motor mounts, but others are available, or you could make your own. It's also designed to support the rear of an engine with a bellhousing installed. You'll either need to buy a bellhousing or modify the rear mount with spacers to clear the flexplate if you're running an automatic transmission.
One other thing to be aware of is header fitment. Some headers may be too wide to fit, but you could always flip them upside down or mount them pointing forward if needed. Our C10 headers fit the stand just fine, but a pair of headers designed for '88 to '98 C1500 pickups were too wide to install in the normal orientation.
It was all systems go after the break-in procedure had been completed, and the engine was sealed up tight as a drum. After it cooled, I checked all the spark plugs, and everything looked good to go. Currently, the engine is hanging off my engine hoist, and as soon as I'm done writing this, I'll be lowering it onto the motor mounts in my C10. Hopefully it spends more time there this time around!
Source:
Easy-Run Engine Test Run Stands
951.438.7871; easy-run.com