So let’s talk table size. In my opinion, try to have the largest size table that your shop can accommodate and afford. Whether it’s something like a 2×3, 4×6, 4×8 or 5×10.
This will allow you to work more comfortably on projects of different magnitudes.
I went with an overall dimension of 67” long by 43” wide and ½” thick plate.. (That’s about 3.5’ x 5.5’. ) I feel like the 43” width is still a reachable distance without having to walk the other side and using ½” thick plate would take the abuse and would less likely warp overtime.
For the hole pattern I chose to go with the standard ⅝” diameter hole on 3” center. Commercially the tables I have researched are 2” on center. Going that route would mean I would have to drill 693 holes vs 273.
There’s a universal rule that says a comfortable table height is close to waist level. I used my office standing desk to get a realistic sense of feel. For me I measure something around 34” to work best.
Since I will be moving my table often, I choose to go with some casters by Footmaster. They are low profile, rated at 1100lbs each, and have a built in ratcheting system to easily help level the table when on an uneven floor.
To help organize my squares, ginders, flap disc, and other items I designed in a pegboard system.